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Good Tips to control Algae from Microbe-Lift

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Good Tips to control Algae from Microbe-Lift

Remember, algae is the symptom, not the problem. One of the best preventative measures is to monitor stocking density and under-stock the pond. The next would be to watch water temperatures and temper your feeding when the weather is warm. If the water is above 80F, switch to wheat germ, slow down with feeding at 85F, and at 90F, stop altogether. Feed a good quality food and do not overfeed at any time. Water changes and a clean pond will limit nutrient content (=less algae food). You can add plants to take up nutrients, also. The type of plants and how many, will depend upon how many fish and the filtration on your pond. Maintain the pond well and you will have fewer algae blooms to deal with. If possible, shade the pond from afternoon sun. Use Microbe-Lift/PL and Sludge Away to keep any detritus from building up in the bottom. Or you can vacuum fastidiously! Removing algae manually will allow you to remove nutrients from the pond as opposed to killing it in the pond, which releases nutrients back into the water. ML/Barley Pellets and Barley Straw Concentrated Extract work as preventative products to help control nutrients.

Facts about Koi Nutrition from Microbe-Lift

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Did You Know these facts about Koi Nutrition? 

–Koi require omega-6 & omega-3 fatty acids but not more than 15% of the daily intake.

–Fat breaks down into water & carbon dioxide, but protein breaks down into toxic ammonia & nitrite.

–Excess Omega fatty acids in our fish’s diet can result in fatty livers, a toxic condition.

Host Plants for Butterfly Gardens

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Are you planning for your spring garden?   Okay, it is only January and it is freezing, snowing, raining, and miserable but I cannot stop thinking about spring, the ponds thawing, and what plants I can add to my garden.    Butterfly Host plants have always been an interest to me—I have grown plants not for my personal use (such as some herbs) but for the beautiful butterflies which emerge when butterflies lay their eggs on Host Plants.   About two weeks after the female lays her eggs on a host plant, tiny larvae appear and start munching and growing.   It is so satisfying to me when the caterpillar leave the plant to form a chrysalis.  I know it will only be a matter of time before more beautiful butterflies will appear floating over the pond and laying more eggs to continue the amazing life cycle of the butterfly.

Important host plants are Milk Weed, Black Eyed Susan, Coneflowers, Wild Violets, Viola. Herbs such as dill, fennel and parsley.  Trees, such as Elm, Flowering Dog Wood, Sweet Bay and Willow.  The list is long and you can search for lists on the internet or ask your local greenhouse business owner.  There are also native plants which work well in your area.   If you are in New England, check out “Garden In The Woods”—they have wonderful gardens and sell native plants—a benefit on so many levels.  Here is their website link: http://www.newfs.org

To plan your butterfly garden, you will need to know what butterflies are in your area.   I have found a nice website with great information for you!  Here is the link:  http://www.gardenswithwings.com

 

Enhance the enjoyment of your pond and water features by adding plants to attract (nectar) and grow (host) butterflies!

Butterflies are free—just add the plants to your Butterfly Garden!

 

Brown Blood Disease – Nitrite Poisoning

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Have you lost fish in your pond or aquarium?  If yes,  it may be due to Nitrite Poisoning.  Nitrite Poisoning includes symptoms such as ‘piping’ or gasping at the surface, listlessness, and rapid gill movement.   When the fish dies, its gills will be flared and you may notice dark brown or blackened patches under its skin.   Nitrite Poisoning or toxicity in fish is referred to “Brown Blood Disease”.

When you suspect Nitrite Poisoning, is killing your fish, perform a 50-75% water change and perform a thorough tank / filter media maintenance.  For long term fish care, perform weekly water changes, monitor water chemistry and change filter media as directed.

 

 

 

 

 

THE 7 STEPS OF THE NITROGEN CYCLE

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THE 7 STEPS OF THE NITROGEN CYCLE

When starting a new tank (or pond) you must “cycle” your aquarium (pond).

The Seven Steps must be complete to cultivate the right bacteria in your filter system by allowing nature to take it’s course.  Do not expect a tank or pond to be ready to introduce livestock as soon as you fill it with water.   If you start off without a bacteria colony in your fitration system, you will need to do frequent water changes to bring the ammonia and nitrites to a safe level.    The Nitrogen Cycle will be complete in about six weeks (+/- 2 weeks on average) to be complete.

There are seven steps in the Nitrogen Cyclce.  Once your tank (pond) is fully cycled, your system will have the right biological and chemical balance for livestock.

Step 1:   Waste from livestock (fish respiration, waste, plant waste) creates the ideal habitat for good bacteria.   This is the start of the cycle.  Most people start with a few very inexpensive fish in their pond or aquarium.  Some people use a piece of shrimp to start the cycle in their aquarium

Step 2:  Waste creates ammonia in the water (the water will look hazy).   Ammonia is deadly toxic to livestock.

Step 3:   Nitrosonomas bacteria consume Ammonia.

Step 4:   Nitrosonomas bacteria produce Nitrites (convert Ammonia to Nitrites).    Nitrites is deadly toxic to livestock.

Step 5:  Nitrospira bacteria consume the nitrites and produce Nitrates (great plant fertilizer).

Step 6:   When Nitrites are converted to Nitrates, the ammonia and nitrites will be equal to zero and nitrates will be less than 10 ppm.   At this point the aquarium / pond is fully cycled and can support livestock.    The pH may need to be adjusted to a neutral range during this process—adjust the pH slowly until it is in the desired range for your livestock.

Steps 7:  Add fish slowly!  You want to keep pace of the waste stream and keep the bacteria balanced so the ammonia and nitrite stay a zero!   Nitrate is toxic over 30ppm–it is best to target keeping nitrates less than 10 ppm.   You will need to do a 20% water change once per month or 10% every two weeks.    You should also consider products to lower nitrates if water changes are less frequent.   It’s a balance—fish and plant waste / water changes / filter media changes.

Happy Fish Keeping!