Preparation and supplies needed for Hurricane Sandy

Here are some steps and suggested supplies to prepare your pond for Hurricane Sandy.

During storms, your fish will most likely move low in your pond so it is very important to keep aeration running.   In heavy rain the water column will flip; bottom water will go up, top water (full of oxygen) will go down.   This is known as Pond Stratification.  Without aeration, especially in deeper ponds,  the fish may suffocate as the bottom water moves to the uppers surface where fish usually swim.

For more information on Pond Stratification, here is a good link from Ohio State University http://ohioline.osu.edu/a-fact/0007.html.

Hurricane Sandy will provide heavy rain–prepare for pond stratification by using your aerators through the storm.

Prepare for Hurricane Sandy

• Test your present water quality parameters to get your baseline numbers on pH, Hardness, ammonia, etc.
• Remove anything around your pond that can blow in, such as chairs, tables, umbrellas and potted plants.
• Ensure the pond is sufficiently buffered (high hardness) as the water (acid rain) will affect your pH. While I am not personally a fan of using baking soda, in an emergency, use 1 cup of baking soda per 1000 gallons of water. Buffering a pond will protect the pH from crashing. Adding baking soda at this rate will increase your pH to approx 8.4. Keep that in mind so you can adjust after the storm.
• Reduce runnoff–if possible, from your rain gutters from going into your pond as it contains things, such as leaves and dirt, etc.
• Cover your pond with a net, secured with stakes.
• Stop feeding the fish. This will reduce waste and ammonia productions should the filtration be compromised. They will be fine if you do not feed them.
• Tie things down. If you cannot move / put away things which can blow around, secure them with bungee cords, rope, etc.

Protect the pond power.

Get a generator to keep the circulation and air pumps running.  If you cannot get a generator, you can get creative based on your situation.  Inverters, Universal Power Supply (UPS) used for computers, marine batteries may be good alternatives.

Suggested supplies.

Ammonia test kit / strips
Nitrite test kit / strips
KH/TA test kit / strips
Baking soda
Pond Salt
Ammonia binding dechlorinator
Activated charcoal
Koi clay (calcium bentonite)
Net to cover the pond
Power Generator, inverter, etc.
Sand bags to protect the pond from runoff.
PVC pipe, fittings, glue, etc. to make repairs if necessary
Extra air stones and air pumps with appropriate size tubing.

After Hurricane Sandy, clean up as normal and the water quality of your pond.  Adjust the pond water as necessary to get the pond to it’s pre-storm quality.

Things to do to Winterize your Pond!

Prepare to winterize your pond

Winterize Waterfalls:

Shut off and remove your pump (store indoors) when ice begins to form. This will protect your pump and stop ice damns from building which will create loss of water into your pond.

Winterize UV Lights:

Remove the light system and store indoors. Perform all required maintenance so the UV light system is ready for the next season. Don’t forget to change the bulbs per the manufacturer recommendation.

Use Heaters to Winterize your pond:

Heaters should be used to keep a hole open in the ice. There are two basic types, which are floating and submersible. Most small pond owners use submersible heaters while others use the floating type as it is easier to reach (place and remove).

Preparing to winterize – Plant Care:

Hardy plants should be trimmed to about five inches after Columbus Day and placed in deeper water.

Aquatic grasses such as Cattails, rushes or reeds should only be trimmed back about 18 inches and remain in shallow water.

Water Irises should not be moved in deep water and should their pots should only be covered with 3-4 inches of water.

Lillies and Oxygenators should stay in deep water (18 to 36 inches), as long as they remain below the ice level. Trim all leaves and stems so they will not foul the water (decaying plant matter).

Tropical plants: Bring them indoors! Some people bring in their floating plants–this is fine but they need fresh water (and do best with an aerator for dissolved oxygen). Most floating plants are a challenge and are typically discarded each season. Be sure to inspect all plants before bringing them indoors to prevent unwanted ‘pests’.

Preparing to winterize – Fish Care: Check your water temperature daily before feeding.

When the water temp is around 60 degrees, it is time to switch over to wheat-germ based food. Stop feeding your fish when water temperature is near 50 degrees. Do not be tempted to feed your fish during warm spells as their metabolism has slowed and the food you feed them will not digest–it will rot in their digestive system.

Use Aeration to Winterize your Pond :

Fish require aeration–year round! Moving water will not freeze as easily and is less expensive to run than heaters. Aeration will help keep the water moving and keep a hole open in the ice to allow gases to escape.

Note: Do NOT break the ice, this will kill the fish.

When you winterize your pond, plants, pumps and heaters, your fish will do well over the winter and will be healthy in the spring!

Clean up Bacteria is essential for a clean pond bottom!

Did you know Clean-Up Bacteria is essential for a clean pond bottom?

A clean pond bottom is essential for a healthy pond environment and we offer a variety of clean-up bacteria that assists the biological activity of your pond by accelerating the decomposition of leaves, sediment and other organic matter that would otherwise settle at the bottom of your pond producing harmful gasses.

A clean pond will also help maintain a healthy immune system for your fish.

From Microbift:

“Did You Know?  KH (Carbonate Alkalinity) levels need to be at least 80, and preferable between 100-300 ppm for continuous nitrification (ammonia removal).  Phosphate levels should be 0.050 to 0.100 ppm, the lower the better.  Water changes and plants will remove phosphates from pond water.  The pH for a koi pond can be 7.2 to 9.0 and the koi will thrive, as long as it is stable at that level.  (Mine stays at 8.8 – 9.0).
Even very minute amounts of copper can be toxic to koi.”

If you do not have a method to test water, now is a good time!

http://shop.funkykoi.com/ECOLOGICAL-LABS-Microbe-Lift-5-in-1-Test-Strips-p/test-5.htm

Did you know that the maximum depth the air stones for the PondAir™2 and PondAir™4 pond aeration systems should be set at, for optimum performance and durability, is 24″?    You can download a PDF copy of the product manual on our website!

http://shop.funkykoi.com/Pond-Logic-PondAir-4-Aeration-Systems-p/120916.htm